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Installation Tips

Cooler Master V10 is compatible with Socket 754/939/940/AM2(+), LGA 775 and LGA 1366 mainboards. Before installing the cooler onto the board, you have to attach the appropriate retention to its base:


Socket 754/939/940/AM2(+)


LGA 775

Mainboards for Core i7 processors with LGA 1366 socket use the same type of cooler retention as LGA 775 platforms, only their brackets are a little longer. You should use special rubber rings on the spindles to protect the mainboard PCB against scratches and other damage:

After that turn the cooler upside down and put the mainboard on top of it tightening the screw-nuts on the spindles inserted through the backplate or through plastic washers if no backplate is used. I would strongly advise using a backplate in any case: it will prevent the PCB from bending and will ensure more secure installation. I also have to add that it is very inconvenient to tighten the screw nuts with the enclosed wrench: the wrench is constantly slipping off the screw-nut because of the backplate edges. I would strongly recommend that Cooler Master pays special attention to this matter and fixes this issue in the upcoming V10/V8 cooler revisions.

After that all you need to do is simply install the mainboard with the cooler into the system case. I may have sounded too optimistic when I said “simply”, because the board with Cooler Master V10 on it simply didn’t fit into my Ascot 6AR2-B case: the plastic casing of the cooler was pushing against the 5-inch bay chassis. Even with the casing removed, the horizontal heatsink kept pushing against the non-removable case chassis:

 

Nevertheless, I managed to fit the mainboard with the cooler into the case. Those of you who are planning on buying Cooler Master V10 should keep in mind that the distance from the right side of the mainboard PCB to the 5-inch bay chassis should be at least 40 mm to fit this cooler. Otherwise, the cooler will not fit into your case with the casing on. With the casing removed this distance should be at least 33 mm. however, you should also take into consideration the location of the CPU socket on your mainboard. If it is shifted to the center of the PCB, the cooler will be hanging off the other side even more, and the other way around.

Despite numerous heatpipes, Peltier module and a horizontal heatsink, nothing interfered with the electronic components on the mainboard around the CPU socket:

 

Even tall memory heat-spreaders didn’t disturb the horizontal heatsink, even though it was touching them during installation. Everything could be real great at that point, however, there was one more problem waiting ahead: I still had to attach the fans to the cooler. The fan sitting between the two vertical heatsink arrays was an easy one. However, the only way I could install a horizontal heatsink was like that:

 

Of course, there were no problems like that in an open testbed that is why at first I decided to check out how removed casing and a fan installed at an angle would affect the cooling efficiency. It turned out that when we removed the casing from Cooler Master V10 in an open testbed, the CPU temperature under maximum load dropped 2-3°C. Installing the fan at an angle didn’t have any effect on the cooling efficiency whatsoever. I dare suppose that installing this fan at an angle rather than the default way may be pretty beneficial inside the system case, because in this case the side of the fan will not be blocking the airflow from reaching the vertical fan. Anyway, I need to get a bigger case to see if this assumption is true or not 9which I am planning on doing in one of the next articles).

However, once thing is undeniable: the fan highlighting looks much cooler with the casing removed:

Very beautiful, isn’t it? However, as we can see from the discussions in our forums and articles, not everyone is fond of the LED lighting, so it would be really thoughtful of Cooler master to allow disabling it if necessary.

 
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