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The monitor’s Power button is located in the bottom right corner. It is designed in a rather unusual way as an angle shining in blue.

The other buttons are located on the left of the bottom edge of the case, which is not quite good. You are habitually reaching for the buttons with your right hand at first while the lack of any labels on the front panel make you confuse the seven same-size round buttons rather too often.

Quick access is provided to switching the inputs, to the auto-adjustment for analog connection, to enabling the Picture-in-Picture mode, and to the brightness and contrast settings.

The monitor’s menu behaves oddly. The brightness and contrast settings get blocked on your selecting a color temperature mode other than User. But if you then press the button for quick access to those settings, they get unblocked while the color temperature you’ve set on the previous step is automatically transferred into the User mode. So, you can select a color temperature of 9300K and a custom contrast, but only in two steps. First you select the temperature (the contrast setting is blocked at that) and then you select the contrast (using the quick access buttons).

And if you select the sRGB mode, the brightness setting is unblocked and set at 41% by default.

Well, you can give up the onscreen menu altogether and use the Windows-based forteManager program instead. It allows changing every monitor parameter and has no problems with adjusting brightness, contrast and color temperature simultaneously. The program’s interface isn’t very user-friendly (the adjustment sliders occupy a smaller portion of the screen than the help text, for example) and takes about 50 seconds to start up on our test PC.

The monitor offers Picture-in-Picture and Picture-beside-Picture modes for the video inputs, but provides scanty options for adjusting those modes to your taste. The only adjustment available for the PiP mode is choosing the position of the secondary window on the screen. You cannot change its size (you can see the default size in the photo above – the black square in the top right corner is the PiP window). Moreover, the appropriate button switches between one image, PiP and PbP. So, if you want to simply turn PiP off you’ll have to press the button two times as the first press will switch the monitor into PbP mode.

The monitor has 64% brightness and 100% contrast by default. To achieve a 100nit white I reduced the brightness and contrast settings to 32% and 34%, respectively. Color gradients are reproduced well at the default settings, but become striped if you reduce brightness or contrast.

Moreover, the L245WP has serious problems with the reproduction of both darks and lights. Its brightness is regulated with the matrix and very sloppily so. When it is set below 60%, dark halftones merge into one. When it is above 65%, lights do the same. Thus, the brightness adjustment range that does not affect color reproduction is only from 60% to 65% on the L245WP. At the above-mentioned settings of 32% brightness and 34% contrast the monitor doesn’t reproduce about one third of the dynamic range – darks are displayed as pure black.

I want to show this problem to you in a more understandable way by measuring the levels of black and white depending on the brightness setting selected on the monitor. The table shows the results in some imaginary units (I didn’t convert them into candelas per square meter):

The ranges in which the level of black or white is constant are marked in red. In other words, the brightness setting does not affect the monitor’s brightness in those ranges, but only worsens the reproduction of colors. You can see that only the 60-65% range is not red.

You can improve the situation somewhat by not setting brightness below 60%. But then, even if the contrast setting is set at 0%, the level of white is 117 nits, which is too much for working under mild home lighting.

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